As a history and architecture buff, Hampi had been on my bucket list for a long time. I got my chance to bear witness to this once magical city now left in ruins on my drive to Gokarna, Karnataka from Vizag, Andhra Pradesh. Some say even one week wouldn’t be sufficient to explore and piece together the remnants of this ruined city, but I tried to cram the highlights in 3 days.
Once a capital of the historical Vijaynagara Dynasty, this temple town brimmed with riches, culture, architectural marvels and mesmerizing landscape that made it stand out to local and foreign invaders. The lost kingdom now a UNESCO World Heritage Site is still under excavation to unearth the hidden mysteries and beauties that got lost during natural calamities and multiple invasions.
Entering the town of Hampi, one is immediately transported back to 1500AD, reflecting on the magnitude of the kingdom and the prosperity it enjoyed. Thanks to the conservation and restoration efforts by UNESCO, one can envision the life that once was.
Driving through the city one can see the drastic change in the landscape. Amidst small hillocks made of boulders, deep blue sky and striking greens of the fields, take a moment’s break and appreciate the wonders of nature and architectural mastermind.
Must Visit and Must Experience:
- Bheema’s Gateway
Get transported to the historic city of ruins as you enter ‘Bheema’s Gateway’. One of the many entrances to the city, this huge archway gets its name from the epic Mahabharata and its legendary character, Bheema. This military architecture is built with a strategic design in mind as no one can enter in a straight line. This helped the military earn precious few seconds to prepare for battle and secure the kingdom. The design also dissuades elephant movement due to its sharp turns in order to safeguard from surprise attacks.
The ruins still feature stone carvings from the Mahabharata such as Draupadi tying her hair, slaying of Keechaka, Bheema bringing back the celestial Soughandhika flower and more. This site is still under excavation by the ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) and doesn’t require any admission fee.
- Kandlekalu Ganesha (Bengal Gram Ganesha)
Situated on the slope of the Hemakuta Hill, this massive statue of Ganesha is carved out of a boulder. The belly of this statue resembles Bengal Gram (Chick Peas) also locally known as Kandlekalu, from which the statue derives its name. At a height of nearly 15 feet, the Kandlekalu Ganesha is one of the biggest statues currently in Hampi.
- Hemakuta Hill
Relish the splendid views of Hampi atop the Hemakuta Hill. Besides being one of the best locations for an aerial overview it also boasts of a spectacular sunrise or sunset spot. Admire the ruins scattered on the hill to get a glimpse of history, architecture, mythology and so much more.
Myth suggests that it was this hill on which Lord Shiva did penance before marrying the local girl Pampa. So impressed by the dedication and devotion of Pampa, Shiva not only agrees to marry her but also makes it rain gold. The name is derived from this mythical story, where Hema in Sanskrit means ‘Gold’. It is also said that it is upon this hill Shiva opens his Third Eye to kill Kama (Lord of Lust) for disturbing his penance. But later Shiva resurrects Kama as a characteristic feature instead of a physical form on hearing the pleading Rathi (wife of Kama, Goddess of Passion).
- Monolithic Nandi
Known to be the guard and protector of Hampi, the Monolithic Bull or Nandi faces the Virupaksha Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. Housed in a stone structure this large scale Nandi is a site to observe and appreciate.
- Mathanga Hills – Sunset Point
Mathanga Hill is renowned for its surreal sunset views of a nearly 20-25 min trek up a deteriorating path amidst trees and a steep climb. The hilltop gives a spectacular aerial view of the ruins of Hampi and makes the exhausting hike worth it.
Be careful while climbing as it is not an easy hike, wear comfortable shoes and carry water. Go at least 30 min before sunset so that you have plenty of time to hike up and enjoy the view. If the climb seems daunting, an easier and equally breathtaking sunset can be seen from the Hemakuta Hill
- Prasanna Virupaksha
Considered to be one of the oldest functioning temples, this pilgrimage site holds special importance for worshippers of Lord Shiva. It is said to have been constructed in the 7th century AD and has been functioning every day since. The large temple complex houses several stucco figures, a Kalyana mandapam, a 100 pillar hall for celebrations, several smaller shrines dedicated to other gods and goddesses and a large temple kitchen.
An important and memorable experience to take back from the Virupaksha Temple is your interaction with the temple elephant. Hand the elephant a Rs 10 note into its trunk and receive an auspicious blessing from the elephant.
The temple houses many hidden secret passageways and mysteries, a guided tour would help reveal the history, architecture and philosophy behind the temple structure.
- Underground Siva Temple
Believed to be one of the oldest temples in Hampi, this temple dedicated to Lord Shiva was constructed a few meters below ground because of which it is perpetually filled with water making it inaccessible to enter the inner sanctums.
Currently, the temple is dry due to the reduced monsoon season, so one can walk to some extent but the main shrine room still consists of water and can only be viewed from outside.
- Lotus Mahal
Owing to its name to the shape of the structure, this domed architecture with archways and balconies resembles a half-bloomed lotus bud. Although the purpose of this structure is unclear, it is believed to be part of the Zenana Enclosure, a special socializing area for the women folk of the royal family.
The interior decorations and carvings have a curious mix of Hindu and Islamic architecture. Surrounded by a large garden this is considered to be a popular photographed site in Hampi. Relax under the cool breeze in the garden and reminisce how the queens would entertain themselves during scorching days.
- Elephant Stable
These 11 domed tall structures housed the royal elephants. Some rooms were interconnected and each have a small manhole in the back for the mahouts to enter. Elephants rested here and got ready for celebrations and processions. The structure in itself is one of the least destroyed architectures in Hampi hence one can appreciate the carvings and designs.
- Queens Bath
Said to be used by the Queen and her female companions this octagonal structure comprises of verandas enclosing a big open pond with several balconies and an aqueduct. The whole pond has no roof and gives a beautiful view of the deep blue sky. Once filled with fragrant flowers and perfumed water, this beautiful bathing pool is now dry.
- Stepwell
This geometric stepped tank located inside the Royal Enclosure stored rainwater used for daily consumption.
- Monolithic Shivalinga
The monolithic Shivalinga, also known as the Badavilinga is the biggest Shivalinga in Hampi. It is said to be commissioned by an old peasant woman, hence the name Badavi (which in the local language means old woman). The inner sanctum is filled with water as a representation of the river Ganga flowing from the locks of Shiva’s hair. Upon closer inspection, one can see three eyes carved on the Linga to symbolize the three eyes of Shiva.
- Ugranarasimha
This monolithic statue of the 10th incarnation of Lord Vishnu is the largest statue in Hampi. The half-man half-lion, Narasimha can be seen in his ferocious form with eyes protruding, flared nostrils and fangs sitting on the coil of the giant Sesha Nag, the seven headed snake. The heads of the snake form an umbrella for the statue of Narasimha.
Ugranarasimha statue is said to have his consort Goddess Lakshmi sitting on his lap embracing him with her hand on his back, but due to several attacks, the statue was destroyed. Only remnants of her hand and fingers on his back are now visible. Entering the enclosure one can see the detailed carvings and designs of this massive monolithic structure.
- Coracle Ride
This circular shaped country boat has been in use to transport people, goods and sometimes animals across the Tungabhadra River. Now it is merely a tourist attraction to enjoy the ride and visit ruins along the river. Take an hour ride up and down the river stretch and explore the myths and ancient sites of worship. Made of cane, bamboo and plastic sheet and rowed using a paddle this small boat is an extremely cute and economical mode of transportation.
- 1000 Shivalinga’s
Along the Coracle Ride make a pitstop on the river bank and hike up on the boulders to the 1008 Shivalinga’s. Close to this one can also spot an array of 108 smaller Shivalinga’s as well. Carved on the flat surface rock, these Shivalinga’s are still prayed to be the local villagers. Due to not being easily accessible, it is not populated by tourists.
Spot other intricate stone carvings from this spot on either side of the river. Still remaining structures are that of Lord Vishnu in a reclined position, Goddess Parvathi inside a ruined shrine, Sugreev’s Cave and other smaller shrines and carvings. During heavy monsoon seasons, many of these structures remain submerged under water and are deteriorating due to the current.
- Vittala Temple
The most magnificent and extravagant attraction of Hampi is the Vittala Temple. The temple is a holistic campus comprising of a daily goods and services bazaar, pavilions, towers, halls, temples and more. Originally built in 15the century AD, successive kings contributed to enhancing the temple complex.
One of the main attractions of Vittala Temple is the stone chariot that has become extremely popular after becoming a part of the INR 50 note. The stone chariot is in fact a temple in itself, a shrine to the vehicle of Lord Vishnu, Garuda. The chariot faces the temple sanctum that is dedicated to Lord Vishnu in his Vittala avatar, popular amongst the cattle herders of that region. The chariot is adorned with battle scene carvings from myths and floral motifs. The wheels of the chariots are said to be free to rotate, but currently are resting to avoid any further damage to the structure.
Another awe-inspiring detail of the Vittala Temple is the featured monolithic pillars that are part of the Great Hall also known as the Maha Mantapa. These pillars were designed in such a fashion that tapping each pillar produced different music.
Explore each section of the temple complex with the help of a guide to understand and uncover the mysteries of the architecture and the hidden messages in different sculptures and carvings. The detail of each carving would go unnoticed unless explained by a guide.
- Krishna Temple
Built in the 15th century by King Krishnadevaraya on the occasion of conquering the kingdom of Udaygiri, this beautifully ornate temple with detailed carvings of mythical stories, animals and floral designs is dedicated to Balakrishna. The statue of infant Krishna currently resides in a museum in Chennai. Currently under restoration, one can still walk those the temple complex to get a feel of the authentic and still maintained Vijaynagara era temple architecture.
- Hanuman Temple Sunrise Point
Relic has it that this Hanuman Temple, also known as Anjaneya Hill is the birthplace of Lord Hanuman. Visit this mythical hill for its sunrise by climbing nearly 570 steps. Start your day early around 5:30 to reach the hill and commence your climb. Generally, the climb takes around 45min, depending on how you would like to pace yourself.
Witness a magical sunrise overlooking vast paddy fields and the ruins of Hampi. Be careful of the monkeys as they are notorious for stealing food from your hands.
19. Cafe Whispering Rocks
While in Hampi if you crave a good ambience and food that also happens to be #petfriendly check out #WhisperingRocks. The cafe is a little drive from Hanuman Sunrise Point. Navigate your GPS beforehand as you might have difficulty with the network during some parts of the drive.
There is a lot to see, a lot to understand and a whole lot of experience in Hampi. Plan your itinerary carefully with proper time dedicated to each location as there is so much detailing you wouldn’t want to miss. A lot of places require walking so wear comfortable clothes and shoes. Make sure you have a water bottle and some snacks. Most importantly use sunscreen and a cap before you step out as the dusty place with the hot scorching sun will make you sizzle.
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